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K-2 / Chogari
The second Highest Mountain(8,611M)
K-2, mountain
of mountains as referred to by Reinhold Messer in the
account of his 1979 ascent of this giant, is 8611 m. high.
K-2 is located in the heart of the Karakoram Range and can
be seen in its entirety from Concordia. This sublime pyramid
sits at the head of the Godwin Austin Glacier which unites
with a second glacier at Concordia to form the mighty
Baltoro Glacier. Galen Rowell described Concordia as the
"throne room of the mountain Gods" after viewing the
exceptional mountain needles ripping open the clouds in blue
expanse from the 5000 m. floor. Four peaks above 8000 m. sit
within a radius of only 21 km. from Concordia, honoring this
site with the largest concentration of the highest peaks on
earth.
journey to the second highest mountain in the world begins
with an flight to Pakistan's capital, Islamabad. One night
is spent in Islamabad to obtain trekking permits and then
it's off to Skardu. Weather permitting, we will fly to
Skardu; otherwise, we will travel by road.
k-2 By Moonlight
The mountain flight offers
fantastic views as the plane follows the Indus River Valley
and brushes past the ninth highest mountain in the world,
Nanga Parbat. Looking out the aircraft window one sees a
vast ocean of peaks stretching endlessly into the horizon.
This area exemplifies "continents in collision" with four of
the world's greatest mountain ranges (Himalaya, Karakoram,
Hindukush and Pamir) emerging below.
Don't fret if bad weather bars this magnificent plane ride
for the drive to Skardu over the famous Karakoram Highway (KKH,
the old silk route) is just as spectacular. The drive takes
two days with an overnight near Gilgit.
Skardu (2500 m.) is the capital of Baltistan and gateway to
the high peaks of Northern Pakistan. After purchasing
supplies and an overnight rest in Skardu we will proceed by
jeeps as far as the track is passable towards Askolie.
Askolie is located at 3300 m. and is the last village before
reaching K-2.
Beyond Askolie is complete wilderness consisting of glaciers
spouting the beginnings of rivers with mountain guards of
unimaginable heights lining their beds. From Askolie we
begin the walk taking two to three days to reach Paiyu
Campsite (3666 m.) situated under the majestic Paiyu Peak
(6660 m.) with the tip of the 58 km. long Baltoro Glacier
visible in the distance.
The next stage of our journey takes us over the Baltoro
Glacier to our destination, Concordia. The walk on the
Baltoro provides one with ultimate mountain scenery with
such well known mountains as Masherbrum (7852 m.), Uli Biaho
Tower (6190 m.), Trango Towers (6300 m.), the Grand
Cathedral (5228 m.) and Muztagh Tower (7273 m.) shooting up
from this immense highway with sheer vertical lines that
defy reality.
After four to five days we will reach 4691 m. at Concordia.
Here one is encircled by Marble Peak, K-2 (8611 m.), Broad
Peak (8047 m.), Gasherbrum Group, Golden Throne (7312 m.),
Chogolisa (7654 m.) and Mitre Peak (6038 m.). Indeed, this
is "Throne room of the mountain gods." We will spend two to
three days at Concordia and then begin our return to Askole
via the same route. Upon reaching the lush green fields of
Askolie a walk ends and a new way of viewing our earthly
existence begins.
Rakaposhi Peak 7885 M
Towering over the green and
fertile oasis of the Hunza Valley are the ice ridges and
peaks of one of the Himalayan giants, Rakaposhi (7788m). Two
rewarding and contrasting treks combined with a breathtaking
ride up the Karakoram Highway provide a classic Pakistan
experience
Dumani /Rakaposhi which is the local name, the shining wall,
Rakaposhi lies half way of Nagar from Gilgit town on the
right edge of the Karakorum highway at the left bank of
Nagar River.
It is one o the magnificent peak in the world. The peak
dominates the horizon and is constantly visible from the
Karakorum highway, it looks so beautiful that the first ever
glance at it inspires charms and lures an on looker to be in
its abode, it is also one of the easy accessible peak being
lying on the Karakorum highway.
Famous glacier valleys, like, Biro, Barpu, Bagrot and Pissan
surround the peak, it has 3 faces to climb, from South east
face biro glacier Goglot Goh, valley from North West Pissan
glacier from west Ghulmet face which is a long route to
reach to the main summit.
Technically it begins with ice and later on with rock steep
and over hung walls, only easy from Juglot side from which
several expeditions got on the summit.
In 1938 it was explored by British India with a German man R
Campbell Scord who have scaled a small peak of Rrakaposhi
group 6858m that was first attempt of Rakaposhi group from
Juglot Nala.
The 2nd attempt was by RCF Schaumburg in 1946 –47 reached up
to 6096m. RCF Schaumburg a famous explorer of Karakorum and
Himalaya from British India.
It was 1954 the German Austrian climbers tried Mount
Rakaposhi but they couldn’t find an easy route, in the same
time another expedition from Cambridge University attempt a
small peak ranging 6340m.
In 1958 British Pakistan combined expedition climbed
Rakaposhi and valid the medal of Pride. Two of the members
Gol Frost bite one has died, with hard injuries. It depends
to the climbers climbing experiences and physical fitness to
choose routs.
Ultar Peak (7388 M)
Ultar Peak is
situated in the Batura groups of mountains the Karakorum range,
which starts from Chalt village Bar valley to Kampir Dior in
Kurumbar valley, which cuts Pamir Hindu Kush ranges from Karakorum,
These beautiful mountain lies in center Hunza region 113 km, from
Gilgit and 715 km from the capital city of Islamabad. The
surrounding peaks are ladyfinger, Marble Peak, Harchinder Peak -Passu
Peak-Diran- and other famous peaks. The surrounding glaciers are
Attabad -Ultar, Hussan Abad and Batura.Technically its known hard
steady, ice and rock falls, over hanging rocks and sheer Ice,
crevasses, Sharp ridges. It was attempted by many expedition in the
past, but all of them were failed, the only expedition from Japan,
who climbed this peak in 1997.
Lady Finger 6000 Mt. (View from
Hunza)
Diran Peak ( 7266 M )
This peak is situated between
Rakaposhi & Haramosh Massif of karakurom Range one of the
most beautiful Mountain in Nagar valley with easy climb of
snow dome.
This peak has a reputation sitting beside the Rakaposhi and
Haramosh high peaks which surrounded by Minapin Barpu
Boulter glacier, it offer a panoramic view to the Hunza
valley. Accessible from Gilgit on KKH to
minapin-Gultens-Hapakum- B.Camp. to the pasture land on a
beautiful meadow with Extra ordinary view for the green land
of Nagar valley, the down hill of villages gives the picture
seek view of agricultural fields orchard.
In 1968 the three member of Austrian Expedition attempted
Diran, and they have got on the summit successful. They
found Hidden crevasses and high snow Domes on the Northwest
ridge.
In 1964 another Austrian Expedition tried to get on the
summit from Northwest face the couldn’t succeeded, the bad
weather effect them, no injuries has happened.
Technically it is known difficult because the ice walls and
hidden crevasses or the heavy soft snow.
Approach Gilgit- Minapin – Hapaken. Gullies base camp
Boulter Glacier
Passu Peak (7284
M)
Passu peak situated at the extreme west of Batura Mouztagh
at upper Hunza beyond Passu village about one hundred km
beyond the china border and 150 km from Gilgit its on the
Karakorum high way clearly visible, the surrounding peaks
are Batura-I 7885m Shisper 7619m, Balter peak 7400m Kampir
Deyor peak 7611m.
It lies between Batura glacier the 6th longest glacier of
the world, Passu glacier, Ghulkin glacier, Kamaris glacier.
Gasherbrum 1 Peak (
8,068 M )
These four peaks are in Sequence 1st K-2 8611m, Broad Peak
8047m, 3rd Gasherbrum II 8035m, 4th is Gasherbrum I 8068m,
these peaks are surrounded by Baltoro Kangari /Golden
Throne, 7422m and Sherpi Kangari 7380m.
This peak situated opposite Golden thrown or Baltoro Kangari,
on the North west of Baltoro glacier beside G-IV- and G-I.
Its approach for Skardu-Dassu –Askoli –Johla –Paiyu-Lilgo –Urdukas
–Goro Concordia –Bae camp of Gasherbrum II 8035m.
Goodwin Austen, who visited this area in 1858, with his
surveying party, he got a huge Knowledge about this area and
put them in the map.
Gasherbrum
II Peak ( 8,035 M )
Goodwin Austen, who surveyed this area in 1861 with the
other survey party Mintugmerri from the British army, they
crossed different passes and reached to Shimshall valley,
Hunza and the Ladak area.
In 1934 an international, Himalaya expedition of G.O Dyurent
furth a German American Geologist, climber and winner of
1936 Gold Medal visited the area after doing photographic
work, they attempt the summit and became the first climbers.
The route adopted by the party passed through Siri Nagar
Zoji Pass, Drass, and along-Johla –Paiyu –Baltoro glacier.
In 1956 an Austrian expedition team arrived in Pakistan to
climb G-II 8035m, Peak to approach was not so easy but they
managed to reach the base camp passing through Skardu,
Shigar-Thongal –Johla –Paiyu-Urdukas-Goro –Concordia –Base
camp.
Gasherbrum III Peak ( 7,952 M )
Gasherbrum III is situated
between Gasherbrum II and IV and has a height of
7,952m/26,089ft. It was the highest unclimbed peak up to
1974, before a polish ladies expedition, under the
leadership of Mrs. Wanda Rutkiewics, climbed it on the 11th
August, 1975. The leader, along with Alison Chadwick, Janusz
Onyszkiewicz and K. Zdzitowiecki, reached the top. The party
claims that it was an all ladies expedition. The claim of
which has not been authenticated
Gasherbrum IV
Peak ( 7925 M )
Gasherbrum IV With an elevation of 7,929 meters (26,014 ft),
is referred to as the most beautiful peak in the Karakoram.
It is located in the Baltistan region and the best climbing
months can be July and August. Gasherbrum IV is ranked 17 in
the world and was first climbed on August 6th 1958.
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